Picture this: The call to Maghrib prayer echoes through the streets. The dining table is set, filled with steaming bowls of lentil soup, crispy sambousek, and fresh dates. You take that first sip of cold sobia, refreshing after a long day of fasting. But deep down, you know the real treat comes after iftar—when golden, syrup-soaked desserts steal the spotlight.
No Ramadan in Egypt is complete without kunafa and qatayef. Whether it’s the crispy layers of kunafa melting in your mouth or the warm, nut-filled bite of qatayef dripping with honey, these desserts hold a special place in every Egyptian heart. But have you ever wondered where they came from? And who are the masters of this craft, ensuring that every Ramadan, we still get to experience the same traditional flavors?
Kunafa: The Dessert Fit for a King
Would you believe that kunafa was originally made to satisfy a caliph’s hunger? The story goes that Mu’awiya ibn Abi Sufyan, the first ruler of the Umayyad dynasty in the 7th century, struggled with fasting. His palace chefs were tasked with creating a dish that would keep him full longer. Their solution? A pastry made from wheat, ghee, and honey—the earliest known kunafa.
As kunafa traveled across the Middle East, different cultures put their own spin on it. The Ottomans introduced ultra-thin kunafa strands, while in Palestine and Syria, it was stuffed with gooey cheese, creating the famous kunafa nabulsiya. Egypt, however, made kunafa its own by filling it with sweet cream, nuts, or even modern twists like mango and chocolate.
But kunafa isn’t just about taste—it’s also about skill. Have you ever stopped to watch a kunafa maker in action? The way they pour the liquid batter onto a spinning hot plate, forming delicate golden threads, is almost hypnotic. It takes years of practice to perfect the technique. And in Alexandria, there are still masters of the trade who refuse to let this art disappear.
Qatayef: The One-Month-Only Delight
Unlike kunafa, which you can find all year round, qatayef only appears in Ramadan—which makes it even more special. Its history dates back to the Fatimid era (10th–12th century) when it was considered a dessert for the elite. In medieval Cairo, palace chefs would prepare qatayef as a luxurious dish filled with nuts and drenched in honey, served to sultans and princes during their lavish iftars.
But, like all great food, qatayef eventually found its way to the streets. As the centuries passed, vendors in Egyptian markets began making fresh qatayef every evening, and soon, it became a beloved Ramadan tradition.
What makes qatayef special is its versatility. Do you prefer them crispy or soft? Some love them fried until golden and crunchy, stuffed with walnuts or cream, and soaked in syrup. Others prefer soft qatayef, folded around a rich filling and lightly grilled. And in recent years, Nutella and lotus-filled qatayef have made their way into the mix—because even the most traditional desserts can evolve!
Meet Alexandria’s Masters of Kunafa & Qatayef
In today’s world of mass-produced sweets, there are still artisans who refuse to cut corners—masters who wake up before dawn to prepare fresh, handmade kunafa and qatayef the way their ancestors did. These are the names behind the flavors that keep Ramadan magical in Alexandria.
1- Uncle Houda: The Kunafa Whisperer (Since 1973)
Step into Uncle Houda’s small shop in Alexandria, and you’ll feel like you’ve traveled back in time. For over 50 years, he has been making kunafa by hand, just as his father taught him.
Unlike commercial bakeries, he still spins kunafa strands manually, using a copper oven instead of electric machines. The result? A kunafa with an unmatched crispness and aroma. Despite his age, he insists on working every Ramadan, saying, “If I stop making kunafa, it will feel like Ramadan is missing something.”
Uncle Saber: The Qatayef Magician of Sidi Bishr (Since 1968)
For decades, the sound of sizzling qatayef batter has been a Ramadan tradition in Sidi Bishr, thanks to Uncle Saber. Since 1968, he has been pouring, flipping, and stuffing qatayef by hand, refusing to use pre-made batter like modern stores.He smiles when asked about his secret, saying, “It’s all in the batter. If you rush it, it won’t have the right texture. My father taught me to mix it with patience, let it rest, and only cook it when it’s just right.”
Mohamed Ta’el: The Qatayef Purist (Since 1955)
Mohamed Ta’el’s family has been making qatayef the old-fashioned way for nearly 70 years. What sets him apart? He ferments his batter overnight, creating a richer, more flavorful qatayef.Customers who grew up eating his qatayef now bring their own children, passing down the taste of tradition. “People don’t just come here for qatayef,” he says. “They come for memories.”
Hassan: The Kunafa Keeper (Since the 1980s)
In Manshiyya, Hassan is one of the few remaining handmade kunafa masters. He started as an apprentice at 12, learning from his uncle, and today, he still refuses to use electric ovens.Why? “Kunafa baked over charcoal has a soul,” he says. And his loyal customers agree—lining up every Ramadan just to get a taste of his kunafa.
Al-Laithi Workshop: 75 Years of Sweet Perfection
Since 1947, this family-run workshop has been making kunafa and qatayef in the most traditional way possible. They still use a brick oven, and many Alexandrians travel from across the city just to buy their Ramadan desserts from here.
Maybe it’s the sweet, comforting flavors. Maybe it’s the warm memories of sharing them with loved ones. Or maybe it’s simply because Ramadan wouldn’t feel the same without them.
These desserts are more than just food—they are part of Egypt’s history and culture. Every bite of kunafa or qatayef carries the flavors of centuries-old traditions, the skill of artisans who refuse to let the craft die, and the joy of a Ramadan evening spent with family.
So this Ramadan, when you take a bite of your favorite kunafa or qatayef, take a moment to appreciate the hands that made it, the history behind it, and the fact that some traditions are simply too sweet to change.
